How does the process work?
We operate by appointment (or chance…). So please make contact through enquiries and we can organise a consultation or fitting with one of our tailors.
2. First fitting
Fittings take about an hour. We guide you through all the decisions that go into making your suit and then we conduct the initial fitting.
3. Second Fitting
In about 8 weeks time* your suit is delivered and we contact you for a second fitting. If there are any alterations we have these done within a week.
4. From there
We then have your pattern and re-ordering is straightforward. Making changes to your pattern is simple. We can keep as many ‘cuts’ as you wish. The system works in the same way for shirts.
* delivery times vary with construction, cloth choice and availability. Occasional delays due to cloth availability happen from time to time.
What jacket details can I choose from?
We have multiple construction elements and details to choose from.
Jacket construction elements include:
Three chest piece weights, one of which is almost completely uncanvassed.
Four main shoulder expressions, including an unpadded shoulder.
Fully lined, buggy lined and completely unlined, including unlined sleeves if desired.
Jacket details include:
Peak, notch and shawl (dinnerwear options inclusive with each, grosgrain or satin). All in a standard width or a wider option. Click here to view our lapel styles.
Single breasted 1 button, 2 button, 3-roll-2 button and several double breasted options.
Flaps, jets (beson) or patches, including a special hidden patch pocket option. Flap or jet ticket pocket also available. Chest pocket options are barchetta welt, patch or curved patch.
Standardised to one each side (right side button-closing) and pen pocket left side, in fully lined and half lined jackets a lower left side card pocket as standard.
Super fine 1mm or 6mm placement and a raised double row.
None, Single, Double, Double with vent strap.
None, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 (kissing or non-kissing for each). All cuff buttons are functioning.
Choose from under collar, 'baffo', and inside lining positions.
What trouser details can I choose from?
Trouser details include:
Bare, side adjusters (buckle and strap), belt loops or portofino. Dinner split as standard.
Flat front, single pleat, double pleat.
Seam, slant or jet.
Jet with button, jet without button, single right side pocket with button, or none.
None, below the knee (standard with wool), total.
Braid in satin or grosgrain.
Zipper or button fly.
Turn up 3cm, 4cm, 5cm or none (all are finished with hem tape).
What shirt details can I choose from?
We offer over 20 collar styles, plenty to cover the myriad of faces and shoulder shapes, along with multiple cuff styles. There are choices between real and faux Mother of Pearl buttons, thick or thin, and 3 types of collar and cuff interfacing including an option for no interfacing.
We offer back pleats in various forms and the option for none at all. We can make shirts with darts, with chest pockets, with plackets or without. There are various sleeve vent closures including hidden buttons or gauntlet buttons.
You can opt for a monogram in contrasting stitch on the cuff, the skirt, the front, the pocket or in the collar.
We also make fully handmade shirts in the true Neapolitan style, with micro-pleated yokes, sleeve heads and cuff attachments. Or have it handmade without the micro pleating for the most finessed and beautifully delicate appearance. This includes hand stitched buttonholes.
All shirts have a split yoke unless specified. This adds strength to the sleeve attachment.
What makes P Johnson different to other tailors?
We’re a lightweight specialist. We aim to make suiting relevant and highly wearable in all contexts. Our emphasis is on fit and a reductive approach to building a wardrobe.
We encourage our clients to slow the process down and carefully, over time, build their ideal wardrobe. We approach it logically and didactically. We discover most client’s tastes and preferences develop as a result of them improving their understanding of what it is that makes the clothing relevant to them.
We encourage you to keep in contact with your tailor about your ideas to facilitate this progression. Where at all possible we endeavour to keep you in contact with the same tailor (If you wish to change your tailor please let us know).
What about alterations?
The cost of alterations are cordially included in the initial purchase. We only charge for alterations when it’s a result of a significant and measurable change in build. We only make alterations to P Johnson garments.
What is canvas for, and what is a floating canvas?
Canvas is used in the chest of the jacket to give it shape and structure. It comes in various compositions; mixtures of animal hairs, cottons, linens and other fibres depending on the properties desired. Ours are typically lightweight and do not have linen content (so they can be used with wool suiting and not considered Shatnez in accordance with the Torah).
The canvas is combined and then attached to the cloth using many fine stitches (not glues) and is referred to as a floating canvas. This is the genuine and traditional means of construction and allows for fluid movement, drape of the cloth and breathability of the jacket. This is important for a natural appearance in the jacket and allows for the best exploitation of the cloth’s properties.
What is ‘shape and drape’ referring to?
The suit as it’s known to most is a structured garment meaning it employs a chest piece and a shoulder pad to give the jacket a clean and shapely addition to the wearer’s own chest and shoulder. It serves to disguise deficiencies in the body. The more structure, the more elevated and distinguished is the appearance.
Drape is quite the opposite. Drape refers to the natural fall and movement of the cloth and aids in creating a more sensual and luxurious appearance. Reducing the internal structures of the jacket allows for more drape, and an increasingly lithe and more natural appearance.
Australian super fine merino is still king when it comes to beautiful suiting cloth. We work with the very best technical merino weavers, most of which are based in the Biella area of Piedmonte in North West Italy, using Australian grown merino wool. We also work with some of the classic UK mills for more niche requirements.
Our linens are variously sourced from classic Irish to softer Belgian linens, as well as very light Italian. Our cottons are sourced from specialist weavers in the Varese region of Northern Italy, and Japanese weavers as well.
Our shirting cloths are Italian spun and woven Egyptian cottons.
Where are P Johnson garments made?
We construct our garments with a number of makers from around the world. We make most of our tailored clothing in our workshop in Tuscany, (for more on Sartoria Carrara click here). We also make some tailored clothing, including our shirt jackets, with partners in China. We make our shirts in both China and Poland and our knitwear in both Italy and China. In essence our mission is to find the best possible makers from around the world to ensure our garments are of the highest quality and best value.
Lines of Suiting
Garment Care, Terms & Conditions
All purchases, vouchers, adjustments, refunds, etc are based on our standard terms and conditions.