R&D

Painting and making clothes aren’t all that different. Californian abstract expressionist Richard Diebenkorn felt a painting should exist for its own sake and on its own terms and it ought to communicate the process of its creation with all its beautiful revisions visible. He said "My freedom consists in my moving about within the narrow frame that I have assigned myself for each one of my undertakings”. We feel much the same. Subtle edits, re-works and submission to the process. Beautiful things grow from a labour balancing restraint and pressure.

As an homage to Diebenkorn, we enter the March drop with a revision of our own - a smock-y leisure suit based of our favourite Corbu, washed back, tweaked and advanced. We have called it the RD. The fine Italian cotton canvas is mollified by washing. It comes in a buttery, sandy shade and a navy of course. The pockets are lowered for added insouciance. It is accompanied by the patch pocketed RD trouser, a loose fit with memories of a working life, yet softened into something more ample and luxurious. These piece’s interiors are piped with fine blue stripe shirting cotton resonant of ticking stripes.

We recommend the RD layered with the Somerset knit, a collarless and hem-less ‘cast-off’ look that comes in navy and off white. It is a minimal ribbed knit with just enough opacity to function and still intrigue, something to spend days in. If you’re after a more substantial alternative the mock-necked cotton Cormac knit has strong maritime signals. This sweater is masculine and tough looking yet rich, soft and dense from its heavy gauge cotton yarn that is finessed back with subtle two stage ribbing at the neck and hand.

The recent slack jacket and chino leisure suit is back this time stepped-up in a luxurious Italian silk-linen blend with a powdery texture from washing. The navy and chocolate colours are layered and worked into something complex and patinated. The slack jacket offers a tailoring alternative, stripped out, unlined, superbly fresh and lightweight, subbing in for a tailored blazer when that might feel a little too forceful.

We introduce the new 4 pocket Lamu shirt in a deep madder brown. It looks industrially born at first but it too is softened, honed, artful and made in the most pliable of linens. The pocket flaps have a gentle dipped line, the pocket pleats are hand bar-tacked to finish, as are their corners (resembling tiny caterpillars), the Trocas shell buttons are attached with crow’s foot stitching and the unlined collar and cuffs are lively and fresh. The shirt sits in a zone adjacent outerwear and can be used as such, layered. It will grow old and dishevel gracefully.

Similar but reduced somewhat is the Willis shirt with two pleated chest pockets and the same artisanal touches as the Lamu. You can marry it to the new linen leisure short as a resort set, a minimal shortish-short in a natural cut with self-string ties and sturdy French seams. The shorts come in navy and chocolate brown to pair with Willis and Lamu accordingly. Willis also comes in a subtle off white for a versatile and cleaned-up alternative to our Western shirts.

If you need new swimmers we have three new options, one an iteration of the chainmail house print and two options in a simple and modern paisley motif.

“In a successful painting everything is integral - all the parts belong to the whole. If you remove an aspect or element you are removing its wholeness."